Istanbul

(Note: The following blog post chronicles our first visit to Istanbul in late October. As it happens, we now find ourselves back in Istanbul after being in Israel, Egypt, and Jordan for a month, as we are waiting on the unfortunate events in Mumbai to develop. We were scheduled to fly to Delhi today with a stopover in Istanbul. However, in the interest of being fully safe, we extended the stopover for a week or so to let things in India simmer down so that we may assess the situation. Perhaps this is overcautious, but with plenty of time to spend in India and our proven track record of finding trouble against all odds, we believe it to be a wise move. This decision was made much easier by the fact that Istanbul is by far the coolest city that we have visited on this trip and is certainly in the running for best city ever.)

In the planning stages of our world trip, Turkey was somewhat of an afterthought. We had heard here and there that it was a cool place, but it was not the centerpiece of our trip by any means, merely a connecting point between Greece and Israel. Now, with Istanbul in our rearview mirror and part of our hearts left in that magical city, the decision to include Turkey in our itinerary might have been our best move so far.

Our everchanging itinerary (thanks to the wonderful flexibility of our Star Alliance 'round the world ticket) left us 12 days in Turkey. From the first moment that we left Istanbul's Ataturk Airport and headed into town on the comfortable and well-routed train/subway/tram/funicular system, we decided that we would need at least those 12 days to even begin to explore the massive metropolis of Istanbul, a city of somewhere between 16 and 19 million people. Spanning two continents, Istanbul is both a literal and figurative bridge between Europe and Asia, a true melting pot of cultures and histories. The influence of cosmopolitan Europe is evident in the stylish dress of the city's young movers and shakers, but the fashion has a harder edge that gives Istanbul a flair of its own. The traditions of Asia and Europe mix with modern techniques to create an incredible array of culinary delights, from delicious street-side kebab to cutting edge haute cuisine. As usual, we ate very well and enjoyed a lot of down time in quaint cafes with a coffee, a narghile (water pipe), and a good book or Farkel by our side.

Most of the tourist sites in Istanbul are located in the Sultanahmet district, but we wisely elected to stay in Beyoğlu, a hipper and more modern part of the city, with Taksim Square and the massive pedestrian promenade of Istiklal Caddesi as its beating heart. We found a fantastic hostel called Neverland, which had just opened a month prior and was run by a very friendly international collective of twentysomethings. Our room was spacious, clean, and well-lit, and we awoke each morning to a simple but tasty breakfast of fruit, bread, and coffee. Neverland was ideally located a 10 minute (really, really) steep hike away from Istiklal Street and a five minute walk down to the Tophane tram stop, which linked us to other important parts of the city. The walk down to Tophane also led us directly past a fabulous streetside food vendor who sold mouthwatering sandwiches of lamb kebab with special spices that we probably visited five or six times in our 12 days there.

Originally, we were only supposed to be in Istanbul for seven days, but we extended our trip so that we could go to the Indian Consulate and try to obtain our elusive visas for India, our original ones having been in the passports that we had stolen in South Africa. Armed with all requisite information and fees, we set out for the consulate on our first full day in Istanbul. In sum, they were an incredible pain in the ass. They told us that we had to get a recommendation letter from the U.S. Consulate, a requirement that was novel to us and listed nowhere on any information provided by India. We tried to argue our way around this requirement, but in the end decided to head over to the U.S. Consulate, which turned out to be a 40 minute bus ride away. It wasn't all bad, as the bus took us on a scenic tour skirting the Bosporus, but when we arrived at the U.S. Consulate, it was right in the middle of their two-hour lunch. Temporarily foiled, we waited it out over some tea and Farkel. Of course, when we spoke to the officials at the U.S. Consulate, they informed us that they don't write recommendation letters, a fact that the Indian Consulate knows quite well, having been informed of this policy in an official letter written in 1995, a copy of which the official gave to us to show to the Indian Consulate. We were pretty peeved at this point, but resolved to keep our cool and make it work out at the Indian consulate, which we had to take a long taxi back to since the bus wasn't coming for another 45 minutes.

The horrible secretary at the Indian Consulate thought she had thrown us off the trail and wasn't too happy to see us return. When we explained to her and another official that it was impossible to get a recommendation letter and showed them the letter from the U.S. Consulate, they told us that without the letter, they couldn't help us. That was not going to cut it, so we demanded in no uncertain terms to see the boss. They were not happy about that and kept telling us that he was busy, when we could clearly see that he was not doing anything at all. Finally, we got to talk to the vice-consul, which conversation devolved into a full-on Abbott and Costello routine. He kept telling us that we just needed to get a letter, the impossibility of which he already acknowledged by screaming at us that he knew what the U.S. Consulate's letter said. Voices were raised to a pretty aggressive level on both sides, which left the rest of the patrons in the consulate in awe. Finally, he relented a bit and told us to come back the next day. He obviously just wanted to be rid of us. We ended up returning the next day and miraculously were able to submit our applications for a visa. One major problem loomed: our passports would not be ready to pick up until the evening before we were scheduled to fly to Israel. We were putting our faith in a system that we really didn't trust, but we had no other option. I will save you the suspense and tell you that our passports, with full Indian visa attached, arrived the day before our flight to Tel Aviv. Nice!!!!!!!! Bureaucracy sucks, but can work out eventually.

Anyway, with all of the b.s. out of the way, we still had a ton of time to spend in Istanbul. Besides a lot of time spent hanging out and walking around various parts of the city, we spent one of the first days seeing all of "the" sights in Istanbul. The Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque and the Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) lived up to their billing as some of the most stunning structures ever built.

The Blue Mosque on a gloriously sunny fall day in Istanbul.

Lauren covered up inside the Blue Mosque, in accordance with strictly-enforced Muslim etiquette.

The Ayasofya was also really, really pretty, but we decided not to spend the surprisingly spendy entrance fee for the museum. It was way too nice of a day to be inside anyway.

That day we also went to the Grand Bazaar and the Eqyptian Spice Bazaar, having heard nothing but glowing reports. At the risk of sounding like travel snobs, we were very underwhelmed by these bazaars, both of which were way more akin to a shopping mall than an authentic bazaar. We were definitely spoiled by the earthy and chaotic medina in Fes, which had a much livelier feel than either of the famous bazaars in Istanbul. Whereas we spent countless hours simply wandering through Fes' medina, within 15 minutes in the Grand Bazaar I had a "mall headache" and was heading for the exit.

Fortunately, the exit to the Grand Bazaar is very close to a coffee shop that really knows what its customers want: chocolate. Escaping from the bazaar, we snagged a nice window table at Coffee World and settled down to cafe mochas, which were gratuitously accompanied by a pile of chocolate-covered espresso beans in three flavors and a spoon crafted entirely from chocolate. Wow!!!

On the third night we were in the city, we were walking to dinner down Istiklal Caddesi right around Galatasaray Square when we passed a sign for a hair salon. Lauren had been dying to get her hair cut ever since I botched when cutting her hair in Morocco. Even though it was nine at night, the hair salon was open, so we decided to just go up and check out the scene. There were a couple of people in there and we were welcomed by the hairdresser, Ismail. Ismail speaks about 10 words of English, but fortunately his brother Murat was able to fill in most of the blanks in his heavily accented English. The brothers were super friendly and after being assured by Murat that Ismail was a "professional," Lauren threw caution to the wind and let Ismail craft her hair in any style he wished. While Lauren was getting her hair cut, I spoke with Murat, who was incredibly animated and interesting.

We really hit it off with Ismail and Murat from the first minutes of our meeting, an easy friendship that grew each day we were in Istanbul. After dinner, we returned to the salon and stayed late into the night, drinking coffee and talking. In the remainder of our time in Istanbul, the salon became our clubhouse and we spent countless hours there interacting with the brothers and their diverse clientele. Hanging out at the salon exposed us to a side of Istanbul that you don't find in any guidebook, with showgirls, radio personalities, TV stars, musicians, and others coming in to get their hair cut, extensions put in, or simply to chill.

Here we are in the salon with Murat on the left and Ismail between us.
Besides being great hosts, the brothers have a great and unique style and very silly personalities. It is no surprise that we got along so well.

On the sole Thursday we were in Istanbul, we visited the Istanbul Modern, a large and diverse modern art museum located on the banks of the Bosporus close to our hostel. The Istanbul Modern offers free admission on Thursdays, which was a nice treat. We spent a few hours there before realizing that we hadn't yet had lunch and it was 4 in the afternoon, close to full meltdown time for my stomach. Fortunately, we found a nice little cafe to satiate the hunger demons.

That night, we had dinner for the second time at our favorite spot, Ada, where we had established a good rapport with the manager, Oz. The food there is great, it has a bookstore within the premises, and they play really cool and eclectic music. It is a winner all around. After dessert, we strolled down Istiklal, taking in the energetic atmosphere of the thousands upon thousands of people that walk the street at all times of the day and night. Hearing raucous sounds from an upstairs establishment called Crab Bar, we ventured inside the tiny space. Securing one of the 10 tables, our ears were pleasantly assaulted (how's that for an oxymoron...) by the thrashing sounds of a Turkish metal band. We had some Efes (local beer) and rocked out, particularly enthralled by the band's cover of "Knocking on Heaven's Door," all in Turkish.

Many of our "normal" Istanbul days were spent just walking around the city, writing in cafes, imbibing too much chocolate at Coffee World, drinking tea at the salon, or taking luxurious naps. On the Saturday night of our stay, we went to the North Shield Pub in Gulhane to watch the Natal (Durban) Sharks, our adopted team, take on the Pretoria Blue Bulls in the grand finals of the South African Currie Cup rugby championships. It was cool to catch a South African rugby match in Turkey, particularly as the Sharks emerged victorious.

The always crowded thoroughfare of Istiklal Caddesi.
Beyoğlu is definitely the sweetest part of a city that has many incredible neighborhoods. We would highly recommend the area to anybody venturing to Istanbul.

The following night, we went to see "Righteous Kill," the DeNiro/Pacino movie, at the Cinema Atlas. It was sort of a comedy of errors, as even the most normal of activities can be with a language barrier. As the showtime approached, we tried to get the usher to let us go into the theater, but he kept gesticulating wildly (although in a friendly way) that we couldn't go in. After a while of this back and forth, we were starting to get frustrated, as the movie was due to start in minutes, which we tried to explain to the usher. We couldn't figure out what in the hell was going on, until the usher finally pointed to my watch and then showed me his watch. It turned out that we had spent the whole day on the wrong time, as the clocks had been set back an hour due to daylight savings time. God, did we feel stupid. We all had a hearty laugh about it and then we went and had a beer to pass the newly discovered hour in our day.

The day after that was a mostly indoor day, as it was one of the very few days on this trip that we have experienced rain. Having a cozy hostel helped in allowing us to spend a lot of time inside reading and writing. In the late afternoon, it looked like the rain was letting up, so we decided to go out for a walk. Of course, at the farthest point on our stroll, the heavens opened up in a rainfall that can only be described as biblical. We were completely soaked through, but it was an incredible experience to be outside in such a torrential downpour. The steep streets of the Tophane area became veritable waterfalls and the flat area of Istiklal was a lake in spots. Crazy.

The next day we went out to run some errands and have lunch and when we returned to Neverland, we were met with a pleasant surprise. Our Australian friend Brigitte, whom we met at the Pink Palace on Corfu, greeted us in the lounge. We knew that Brig was coming to Istanbul, but we weren't sure when. She is a very cool chick, wise and mature way beyond her 18 years, who was traveling for 6 months before heading to London to work in advance of beginning her medical studies in Sydney in 2009. We caught up for a bit and then the three of us headed to the fancy shopping mall of Istinye Park to finally catch the new Batman flick "The Dark Knight" at the huge IMAX screen in the very modern movie theatre. We had been trying to see the movie since its release in July, but hadn't found a cinema showing the movie in any of our stops along the way. We all agreed that the movie and the IMAX experience was worth the wait.

The next day we intended to go to another art museum to see their Salvador Dali exhibit, but after getting stuck in massive traffic on the bus ride out to the museum, we called-off that plan. It turned out that the day was Turkey's Independence Day and the populace was out in full force celebrating the 85th anniversary of the establishment of the Turkish Republic. So, we joined in the festivities, soaking in the jubilation over a long lunch and several large beers.

Me, Brig, and Lauren at our drinking lunch.
The colorful couple in Taksim Square during Turkish Independence Day, as captured by Brig.

The three of us had a great time together during the remainder of our time in Istanbul. Of course, we introduced Brig to Murat and Ismail, and the three of us had our hair cut by Ismail at a really long salon session. We also revisited the Sultanahmet Mosque and Ayasofya with Brig and showed her some of our favorite spots, including the Cafe Inn in Sultanahmet and the Crab Bar. Like us, Brig thoroughly enjoys the process of seeing all of the little nuances that a city has to offer and she is a great addition to our zany antics and weird conversations.

Lauren, Ismail, T.J., and Brig just hanging out at the salon.
Lauren posing in the cool light of an Istanbul night, with the blue glow of Neverland in the background.
Relaxing at the Cafe Inn after fresh haircuts courtesy of Ismail.
Puffing on a narghile one night at the Cafe Inn.
Lauren contemplating the meaning of life.
Lauren with a massive banana split at Ozsut, the most amazing coffee/dessert place. They have a mouthwatering array of cakes, pastries, and ice creams, making it an obvious place for us to spend a lot of time. We were sure to let Brig in on the not-so-well-kept secret of Ozsut's decadence.
Heading home from a late night out on Istiklal Caddesi. We were really sad to leave Istanbul behind, but as fate would have it, we have a renewed chance to take in our favorite city.

Too soon, it was time to say goodbye to Brig and to Istanbul. Although we often have a hard time leaving cool spots, the inertia and goodwill created in Istanbul made it particularly difficult to leave. We knew that we would definitely one day revisit Istanbul, we just didn't realize that it would be so soon. That is the beautiful thing about our trip: we can take horrible and unexpected events, roll with them, and make the best of the situation that remains.

Greece

Another bout of tough flight scheduling left us hanging out in the Casablanca airport at 1am on September 27 as we awaited our departure for Athens, Greece. The late hour did not faze us though as we were beyond excited to rendezvous with Lauren's mom, Mary, and sister, Erica, in Athens. From the first meeting at the Hotel Stanley in Athens until our good-byes in the Athens airport, with Santorini sandwiched in between, we had the most amazing time together. We felt so fortunate to be able to share such beautiful places with our loved ones and it was wonderful to see some familiar faces after being on the road for a while. Although we were really sad to see Mary and Erica go, we also really enjoyed our time relaxing on and touring the gorgeous islands of Corfu and Kefalonia.

It is no wonder that so many people choose Greece as a honeymoon destination: the scenery and atmosphere are equal parts romantic and heart-stopping. Being gluttons, we also delighted in the many culinary treats and fresh food that Greece has to offer. Fortunately, we did a lot of walking, so our bodies stayed in decent shape. We will definitely return to Greece, but until we do, we have these pictures to remind us of the great times.

Not even the throngs of tourists could dissuade us from visiting the Acropolis and its centerpiece, the Parthenon.
Lauren walking on the ancient stones of the Acropolis, with part of Athens' vast expanse in the background.
The sense of ancient history was palpable as we walked the Acropolis, as with the virginal (in this sense, lacking scaffolding) Temple of the Vestal Virgins.
Few, if any, cameras can do the magnificence of Santorini justice. Here we look down from the top of Fira into the bay which fills the caldera of the still-active volcano.
Each evening on Santorini we took pause to admire the beauty of the setting sun, usually over a cup of coffee, a snack, or an early dinner.
Six months into our marriage (on this night) and her beauty only increases each day, eclipsing even this stunning sunset over the Aegean Sea.
Fira, Santorini sunset photo courtesy of Lauren.
Mom and I getting ready to take a bumpy (and stinky!) ride up the very steep hillside of Fira, Santorini. We'd been looking forward to riding these donkeys since we started planning the trip. Erica wanted to ride the donkeys too, but as she was (and still is) pregnant, the Greek men said "Baby no, Baby no," so she couldn't participate. Shucks!
Mom took this picture of us just lounging in one of the many comfy, modern chill-spots at The Aressana, our hotel on Santorini.
On our way to dine on delicious Greek delicacies, including moussaka, Greek salads with lots of feta, fresh seafood, gyros, and souvlaki.
We spent a healthy amount of time on Santorini within the confines of our luxurious hotel, especially around this immaculate pool area.
The three (two formerly) Eades women enjoying Coca-Colas in glass bottles. Mary enlightened us on all things botanical during our tour of the lush island of Santorini.
Lauren on the bridge which spanned the Aressana pool, with the cozy cabanas in the background.
T.J. found the fountain of youth, or at least one that gave a cold and free massage.
The three Eades women on the promenade outside of the Aressana, which overlooked the caldera and offered incredible views at all times of the day and night. Erica, four months pregnant and looking fit and fabulous, was an inspiration to all moms-t0-be, as she braved the rigors of international travel with aplomb.
I was blessed to spend such a wonderful time with my wife, my second mom, and the sister that I never had.
Leaving Mary and Erica in Athens, we headed northwest to the island of Corfu, where as the sign indicates, they perform medical procedures at the bus stop. Weird place, made even wilder by our stay at the (in)famous Pink Palace. On two of the days of our stay in Corfu, we rented four-wheelers to cruise around the island.
We have to be particularly careful with Lauren's noggin following her brain surgery, so they busted out the most aggressive head protection that we had ever seen. I encouraged Lauren to wear this for the duration of our trip, but she refused.
Driving a quad on the streets of Corfu was a harrowing experience given the maniacal driving habits of Greek motorists. Still, we made it through unscathed and got to see some cool ancient sites and buildings. We also got to drive on some of the roads featured in the James Bond film "For Your Eyes Only."
T.J. relaxing at one of the monasteries we visited on our quad tour of Corfu.
From Corfu, we took a 7 hour cruise on this well-appointed ferry to Piraeus, where we spent the night before boarding another ferry for Kefalonia.
We lucked into a cheap and comfortable apartment (the view from our balcony is shown above) in the small village of Agia Efimia on Kefalonia, the island on which they filmed Captain Corelli's Mandolin. We rented a car for two days and toured the whole of the island. The magnificent views and food notwithstanding, perhaps the highlight of the tour was our chance discovery of a miniature golf course near the town of Skala.
Laying with our feet up on Myrtos Beach, Kefalonia, with the stark blue Ionian sea and lush hillside in view.

It was mid-October and the sun was still strong, keeping the water a warm, yet refreshing temperature.

Lauren taking full advantage of the European predilection for topless sunbathing.

Morocco

Beholden to the carriers and routes available through our Star Alliance Round The World ticket, we were forced into a convoluted journey from Dar Es Salaam to Casablanca, Morocco. We flew from Dar to Zurich via Nairobi, then from Zurich to Frankfurt, where we had a 12-hour layover involving several coffees and a bratwurst/maultaschen soup lunch, and then finally touched down in Casablanca at 2am after 36 hours of traveling.

Fortunately, we found Morocco far more safe and much less frustrating than East Africa. For the sake of brevity and in order not to bore our readers, we have elected not to give you the full blow-by-blow of our time in Morocco. Instead, we present you with pictorial highlights of our time in Casablanca and Fes, the two cities that we enjoyed the most. We also spent a brief time in Rabat in a fruitless attempt to get our Indian visas sorted out. Unfortunately, our travel time in Morocco was somewhat limited as Lauren had contracted the E. Coli virus, likely due to our inadvertent ingestion of rat in Tanzania, which we were told repeatedly was beef (bastards!). A quick trip to the hospital, aided by my long-lost knowledge of French, got her the antibiotics she needed, but she was still feeling pretty rough for about 5-6 days. Poor girl!

In the end, we decided to keep Marrakesh for another time and stay in Fes for 6 nights, which turned out to be the right decision. We found a cool little pension in which to stay and loved wandering through the labyrinthine alleyways of the old medina, spending time watching the passerby at the numerous cafes and restaurants near the Bab Bouljoud (Blue Gate), and hanging out with our new local friends.

Now, the pictures:

It being the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, we were not allowed into the stunning Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, but the intricate designs on the exterior were more than enough to impress us.

The Hassan II Mosque is massive. To give you an idea of the scale, this is not even the biggest door to the mosque and it completely dwarfs Lauren.
Lauren dancing as we await the departure of our train to Fes.

We were really drawn to the beautifully crafted mosaics, which could be found throughout the medina in Fes, the largest in the world.
Fes was a cool mix of the modern and the ancient, both in architecture and transportation. Fes was celebrating the 1200th anniversary of its founding during our time there.
The painstaking detail with which everything was constructed, especially the gates, evokes Morocco's rich and accomplished culture.
Lauren was so excited to discover that cats were everywhere in Fes' medina. Here, three cats eagerly await scraps from one of the medina's many butchers. On several nights, Lauren would collect her leftover food in a napkin and stroll through the streets feeding the cats. Though slightly disturbing, I supported her like a good husband. We all have our peccadilloes, right?
On our way to dinner one night, my beautiful wife spied this tiny kitten playing around with its siblings in the medina. Although I used to despise cats, I have come full circle and contemplated taking this kitten along in my pack.
The traffic in the tight streets of the medina can get pretty clogged at times, especially when the donkeys pass through on their way to deliver goods to the merchants.
The entrance to Dar Bouanania, our pension in Fes. It was located off some random alley in the medina and we had to pay a local boy a few dirhams to help us find it. As it happened, this alleyway was also the site of weekly knife fights, where disgruntled people from all over Fes came to settle their grievances via blade battle. We were alerted to this fact by the bloodcurdling screams coming from the alley one night. We did not venture out into the alley at this point, as even the local residents were hiding in their houses.
I took this picture of Lauren from the other side of the open courtyard over which our room looked at Dar Bouanania. It had once been a house but was converted into lodging, while still retaining the traditional Moroccan decor.

Just another day of exploring the many intracies of the medina.

T.J. and Yassin, our local friend. Yassin was a fount of knowledge about the medina and a super cool guy to boot.
Lauren peeking down the stairs at one of the many restaurants at which we dined. Moroccan food is so tasty and we chowed on various tagines, couscous, and keftas throughout our stay.
You can find just about everything in the medina. Can you tell what delicacy this butcher has for sale on the right?
How about now?
We took a day trip from Fes to the ancient Roman city of Volubilis in order to gear up for our impending trip to Greece. Here I am posing among one of the many sets of 2500 year old columns.
Together enjoying a beautiful day in front of the ruins of the Volubilis forum.
Here we are underneath the triumphal arch built to memorialize Volubilis' inclusion into the Roman Empire.As we were walking through the ruins of Volubilis, I noticed an oddly shaped object on a pedestal in one of the houses. Upon further inspection, we found a 2500 year old phallus that was for some reason located in the front entranceway of this particular house. We leave it to your imagination to unravel the mystery of its purpose.